• Recent studies highlight the risks of TikTok skincare tutorials promoting “lighter and brighter skin” aimed at young females aged 7 to 18.

  • Numerous skincare products featured contain potent active components that could cause skin irritation and long-term skin allergies.

  • Research indicates that young video makers apply an average of six skincare items, with total costs ranging from $168 to over $500 per routine; only 26% include sunscreen.

  • Experts caution that the unrealistic beauty ideals spread by social media could be damaging to young girls.

Among young girls, the “Get Ready With Me” (#GRWM) movement on platforms like TikTok and Instagram is tremendously popular.

In these videos, young influencers showcase their skincare and makeup routines, offering advice that eagerly absorbed viewers might follow. Unfortunately, not all social media trends, often driven by algorithms that capture the attention of impressionable young audiences, are beneficial.

In a groundbreaking study, Northwestern Medicine researchers have explored the dangers associated with skincare routines promoted by teenage girls on TikTok.

To conduct their study, the researchers set up two anonymous TikTok accounts, each posing as a 13-year-old user.

After evaluating 100 unique videos suggested in their “For You” page based on their stated interests, it was found that girls aged 7 to 18 typically use around six different skincare products on their faces, with some using upwards of twelve.

The products, often marketed towards a younger demographic, aren’t just prevalent but also pricey, costing about $168 monthly on average, and can go up to $500 or more.

A patch test known as the Pediatric Baseline Series revealed that the most popular videos contained an average of 11 active ingredients that could increase the risk of skin allergies and irritation. These videos often promoted having “lighter and brighter skin” and seldom mentioned the importance of sunscreen, with only 26% of them doing so.

Although TikTok’s official age requirement is 13 years or older, the study indicates that some content creators could be as young as 7 years old.

The researchers, in conversation with Healthline, noted that some influencers openly shared their age in their videos. For others, their age was estimated based on the content, such as references to specific life events (e.g., “GRWM for the first day of 6th grade!”) and certain hashtags (e.g., #highschool or #freshman).

Skincare routines on other social media platforms were not analyzed in this study, which the researchers acknowledge as a limitation. They also did not assess the mental health impacts directly, only inferred them.

While a TikTok representative highlighted the benefits of such content for teenage self-expression, parent-teen bonding, and community building, experts argue that the damaging effects revealed in the study, published on June 9 in the journal Pediatrics, are significant and overshadow any potential benefits.

“As a dermatologist and mother of four, I am troubled by the messages young teens receive about skin and skincare on social media,” stated Molly Hales, MD, PhD, a postdoctoral research fellow and board-certified dermatologist at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine. “The only skincare product I generally recommend for children without specific skin issues is sunscreen. It appears that teens are being misled into thinking they need numerous products for healthy skin,” Hales elaborated to Healthline.

Link Between Skincare Content and Allergic Reactions

During the collection phase from April 1 to May 15, 2024, the researchers found a significant correlation between high-risk skincare practices showcased on TikTok and increased incidences of skin allergies and irritations.

Ingredients such as hydroxy acids, which are commonly featured in these videos, can be particularly detrimental to young, developing skin, potentially causing allergic contact dermatitis and leading to lasting skin sensitivity.

“The skincare routines and products featured in these videos pose dermatological risks, including irritation, allergies, and increased sensitivity to the sun, and they promote an unrealistic beauty standard that is often equated with health,” commented Hales.

Daniel Ganjian, MD, FAAP, a board-certified pediatrician at Providence Saint John’s Health Center in Santa Monica, CA, who was not involved in the study, pointed out several reasons for young individuals to refrain from using products with certain active ingredients:

  • Youthful Skin Vulnerability: Younger skin is more delicate and possesses a less developed barrier, making it more prone to irritation, dryness, and allergic reactions. Harsh ingredients can disrupt this barrier, leading to increased sensitivity.

  • Increased Sensitization Risk: Repeated exposure to irritating substances at a young age can lead to sensitization, meaning the immune system becomes “trained” to react to these substances, resulting in chronic skin allergies (allergic contact dermatitis) that can persist into adulthood.

  • Prolonged Skin Problems: Early exposure to harsh chemicals can cause long-term skin issues beyond immediate allergies, such as chronic inflammation, dryness, and a compromised skin barrier, making the skin more susceptible to other problems like acne or eczema.

Indications of an Allergic Reaction

Ganjian informed Healthline that symptoms of chronic skin allergies caused by skincare products can vary in severity but sometimes may be serious. Common signs include:

  • Itching: Often severe and persistent.

  • Redness (Erythema): The affected area may become significantly red.

  • Rash: May manifest as flat, raised, bumpy, or scaly patches.

  • Swelling: Particularly common on the face, lips, and eyelids.

  • Dry, flaky, or scaly skin: Skin may become dry, cracked, or peel.

  • Hives: Raised, itchy, red welts.

  • Blisters: Small, fluid-filled bumps that may rupture and ooze.

  • Burning or stinging sensation: Discomfort in the affected area.

  • Thickened skin (lichenification): Repeated scratching can lead to thickened, leathery skin in chronic cases.

“In extreme cases, allergic reactions can significantly affect a person’s quality of life, leading to discomfort, sleep disturbances, and self-consciousness,” Ganjian added.

“While severe reactions like anaphylaxis (a life-threatening whole-body allergic reaction) are rare for topical products, they are more commonly associated with food or insect stings,” he explained.

Focus on ‘Lighter, Brighter Skin’ in Beauty Content

Several TikTok videos analyzed in the study prominently featured the pursuit of “lighter, brighter skin,” which was depicted as a sign of health.

In one instance, a content creator applied 10 different products within a span of six minutes to achieve this look.

“As she applied the products, she began to experience discomfort and burning, and by the end of the video, she had developed a visible skin reaction,” reported senior author Tara Lagu, MD, MPH, adjunct lecturer of medicine and medical social sciences at Feinberg and a former Northwestern Medicine hospitalist, in a press release.

“We noticed that there was often coded, racial language that overly emphasized lighter, brighter skin. There were also real ties between these skincare routines and consumerism,” Lagu continued.

Lagu and Hales concluded that the content they reviewed offered little to no benefit for the young audience it targets, and that the potential harms extend beyond just skin damage.

“It’s concerning to see girls dedicating so much time and attention to their skin,” Hales noted in a press release. “We’re setting a very high standard for these girls.”

Psychological Impacts of Elevated Beauty Standards

Researchers estimate the high monthly costs associated with skincare routines promoted by young influencers are likely unaffordable for the average young person. It remains unclear how these young influencers afford these products.

“We were alarmed by the high costs of some of the most commonly used products in the videos, most of which offer little to no benefit to the young teens and pre-teens who use them,” Hales stated.

“This makes me question whether girls whose families can’t afford a $68 moisturizer feel their skin is somehow less healthy,” she added.

Moreover, content promoting unrealistic beauty standards can have detrimental effects on mental health during adolescence, a critical period for identity formation.

“The constant need for external validation through appearance can obstruct the development of a healthy, authentic identity based on internal qualities and values,” noted Ganjian.

Potential impacts include:

  • body image dissatisfaction and low self-esteem

  • anxiety and depression

  • eating disorders and unhealthy behaviors

  • social isolation

  • perfectionism and obsessive tendencies

  • distorted perception of reality

  • impact on identity development

“True beauty encompasses overall health, confidence, and internal qualities,” Ganjian continued.

“Chasing unrealistic beauty ideals promoted online can be harmful to mental well-being. Be highly skeptical of skincare content on social media platforms like TikTok. Understand that much of it is marketing-driven, often promotes unrealistic beauty standards, and may feature digitally altered images,” he advised.

Hales echoed these concerns. “I’m worried about problematic and unrealistic beauty standards being misrepresented as skin ‘health’ or ‘care,’ and potentially exposing young people to skin irritation, allergy, and sun sensitivity,” she said.

“For parents whose children are already showing interest in skincare or are beginning to buy and use these products, I would encourage them to help their child choose products with a minimum of active ingredients, such as hydroxy acids, which can be irritating and increase sensitivity to the sun,” she added.

Skincare Advice for Teenagers

Dermatologists and health experts recommend maintaining simple, consistent, and gentle skincare routines.

“With skincare, less is usually more,” stated Ganjian. Many popular products promoted online contain ingredients that are too harsh for young skin and could lead to chronic allergies or other skin complications.”

Ganjian offered several basic tips:

  • Keep it simple: Avoid complicated routines with multiple steps or potent active ingredients.

  • Gently cleanse twice daily: Wash your face twice daily (morning and night) and after sweating, using a mild, fragrance-free, noncomedogenic cleanser that won’t clog pores. Use your fingertips, not harsh washcloths or scrubs.

  • Moisturize (even if skin is oily): After cleansing, apply a lightweight, noncomedogenic, and fragrance-free moisturizer. Even oily skin needs moisture to maintain a healthy skin barrier.

  • Use SPF: Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every morning, regardless of the weather. Look for oil-free or non-greasy formulas.

  • Don’t pick or pop pimples: This can lead to increased inflammation, infection, and permanent scarring.

  • Be mindful of makeup: If wearing makeup, choose noncomedogenic products. Clean brushes and sponges regularly, and never share makeup. Always remove makeup before bed.

  • Prioritize sleep: Aim for 8-10 hours of sleep per night, as adequate rest is crucial for skin repair and overall well-being.

  • Manage stress: Stress can exacerbate skin conditions like acne. Encourage relaxation techniques like meditation, yoga, or hobbies.

  • Stay hydrated and eat a balanced diet: Drinking plenty of water supports skin hydration from within. A diet rich in fruits, vegetables, and whole grains contributes to overall skin health.

  • Avoid harsh ingredients: Avoid products with high concentrations of retinoids, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide (unless specifically recommended by a dermatologist for acne), alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), strong fragrances, and alcohol, which can be too harsh for young, sensitive skin.

  • Consult a dermatologist: If persistent or severe acne, eczema, or other skin conditions arise, seek professional advice from a dermatologist.

“Young skin is naturally healthy and doesn’t need complex or expensive routines. A simple regimen of gentle cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection is generally sufficient,” Ganjian explained.

“If there are genuine skin concerns like persistent acne, a dermatologist is the best resource for personalized, safe, and effective advice, rather than relying on social media trends,” he concluded.